Kalamkari has been in India for about 2000 years. Kalamkari art form literally means pen art or pen craft, which comes from a Persian word “Qualam” or “Kalam” meaning pen and “Kari” meaning art or crafting. However, it might come as a surprise to most of the readers that this typical art form was not known by the term “kalamkari” as we call it today. Back then it was called “Addakam” which literally meant printed cloth. The Mughals who patronised this craft called the artists as “Qualamkars” from which the word “Kalamkari” evolved. Kalamkari involves hand painted designs or block printing on pieces of cotton fabrics, typically with the use of natural dyes, involving twenty three steps. A sharp pointed bamboo stick padded with cotton and tied with string on one end (to regulate the flow of colour) is termed as the pen in Kalamkari art.

History:
Kalamkari art is originated from the state of Andhra Pradesh and Telangana, particularly in the Shrikalahasti and Machilipatnam regions. Srikalahasti was the main centre of kalamkari art as it received a constant supply of clean water. Artists, also known as Chitrakattis travelled from village to village to spread the stories of Hindu Mythology. Their accounts were illustrated by large bolts of canvas painted on the spot with simple means and dyes extracted from plants. Large panels of Kalamkari paintings were found in temples depicting Hindu mythology and iconography. Kalamkari was first used to portray scenes from sacred texts. These paintings were often used as decorative backdrops in temples, depicting the stories of deities.
It was found in the wealthy peak of Golconda Sultanate, Hyderabad, in the middle ages as an art form. Owing to the evolution under the patronage of the Mughals and Golconda sultanate, this art form was influenced by Persian art under Islamic rule. Kalamkari had a period of decline, but then was revived in India and abroad later, being modernised by Persian craftsmen as there was an increasing demand for these prints in the international market. So, Persian art slowly became one of the major influences on the original kalamkari designs. Padma Shri Jonnalagadda Gurappa Chetty is an Indian painter, craftsman and writer, known for his contributions for the revival of the Kalamkari art form.

(Know about Padma Shri Jonnalagadda Guranna Chetty in the “About Artists” section of my blog)
Traditional Techniques:
Kalamkari involves upto 23 diligent and laborious steps, which is as elaborate as the delicate and detailed designs-
- In the first step the cotton cloth is prepared to absorb dyes by steeping it in astringents and buffalo milk to remove starch and sun drying it fully. Along with buffalo milk, myrobalan is used. Myrobalan is also used to remove the odd smell of buffalo milk.
- The kalam is then prepared with a sharp pointed bamboo or date palm stick padded with cotton or a bundle of fine hair, tied with a string. It holds the liquid, so the artist can squeeze this pad to release the ink. This pen is soaked in a mixture of jaggery and water.
- The artist then sketches the central design with charcoal sticks and traces over the outline with this finely pointed and padded kalam dipped in the Kasimi liquid.
- After the black outline dries, the portions are to be dyed with colours.
- The red, black, brown and violet portions are outlined with a mordant as a colour fixative. The cloth is then placed in a bath of alizarin.
- The cloth is then covered in wax, except for the parts to be dyed blue and immersed in indigo dye. The wax is then scraped off.
- Dyes for the cloth are obtained by extracting colours from various roots, leaves, mineral salts of iron, copper and alum. Various effects are obtained by using cow dung seeds plants and crushed flowers to obtain natural dye. Alum ensures the stability of the colour in Kalamkari fabric.
- The remaining areas are then painted by hand.

This procedure takes several days as the cloth must fully dry between each step or layer of dye. It’s a time consuming process as well as detailed. But ultimately the time and effort are worth it, as the final colours are strong and exquisite, and the images are captivating in their depth and complexity.
Genres:
here are two distinctive styles of kalamkari painting based on the technique and origin- The Srikalahasti Style and The Machilipatnam Style.
THE SRIKALAHASTI STYLE-
The Srikalahasti Kalamkari follows the traditional hand-dyed techniques of Kalamkari painting. The Srikalahasti kalamkari originates from a small holy town of Srikalahasti in the Chittoor district in Andhra Pradesh. This Srikalahasti town is named after Sri (spider), Kala (snake) and Hasti (elephant), that once worshipped the Shiva Lingam here and attained Moksham. This style of kalamkari generally depicts hindu mythological tales. The most important feature that differentiates Srikalahasti from Machilipatnam is that, Srikalahasti involves free hand traditional dye technique of Kalamkari. The outline is always the kasimi liquid, and colours are obtained from natural sources. Every peice of Srikalahasti Kalamkari takes a great deal of hardwork and time but is quite unique and an absolute authentic style. It was registered as one of the geographical indication from Andhra Pradesh, under the handicraft goods by Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration and Protection) Act, 1999.


THE MACHILIPATNAM STYLE-
The Machilipatnam Style of Kalamkari, also known as Pedana Kalamkari is not exactly the “traditional pen craft”. It mainly involves block printing that is, vegetable dyes applied on to the fabric with wooden blocks. It originates from the Pedana town of Machilipatnam in Krishna district of Andhra Pradesh. Its a typical form of Kalamkari which follows the same colour patterns and themes years after years. Any craftsman years ago creates his sketch and its key design features with the help of hand-carved blocks. These blocks continues to be used repeatedly for many years and by different craftsmen following the ancestral designs. The women are often represented in yellow, demons in green or red, Gods in blue and many others. It’s uniqueness is in the fixed theme and colour scheme of the style and also the ancestral designs.


Modern day techniques and popularity:
In this world where fast beats the slow, traditional techniques of Kalamkari have been replaced by new digital techniques and printing technology for a faster outcome and trade. Yet, an increasing number of people, discouraging use of harmful chemicals in production and manufacturing of artificial Kalamkari fabrics, still craves for the traditional hand made and block printed designs which avoid use of artificial chemicals.
Traditional Kalamkari prints still emerges as a unique, minutely fabricated handmade merchandise at a reasonable price. Today, people in any country can shop for a range of different traditional Kalamkari printed textiles including kurtas, sarees, dupattas and even western shirts, dresses and single peices in gorgeous designs and colours.

Check out a Kalamkari painting done by me in the “MY WORKS” section of my site

































